So, I've been driving a week since the manifold was swapped. This includes a 300 mile/4 hour trip in the summer heat (say 100* average). The oil stayed full, as did the radiator, but something is dripping a little and I think it might be the fuel line where it connects to the carb.
As to how it runs: okay. Can't quite get it tuned right, including the choke. Kind of chugs and surges, even when warm. And the brakes are crappy.
Problem: one of the vacuum hoses is clearly in the wrong spot or not sealing fully. Who knows which one since it's basically a cluster***k of hoses under there. As to the brakes.... it feels like they need to be bled to get some air out which might have happened when we reconnected the vacuum assist but I'm not sure.
Lots of work still to do.
Saturday, August 24, 2013
Wednesday, August 14, 2013
Manifold swap part 2
Now, my EGR adapter is supposed to come in tomorrow so it's not fully assembled and running yet. But we did get both vacuum switches off the old manifolds, as well as the choke block off.
One thing that I have not seen mentioned anywhere is that bolt #1 on the Edlebrock 3701 manifold is NOT ACCESIBLE with a wrench. WTF. It's supposed to be a 9/16 but no box wrench, closed end, or socket would fit. My dad put a long extension onto a thin walled socket and used a rubber mallet to tap it in and then turned it with a lot of effort/force. What edlebrock should have done was put a 7/16 top onto a 9/16 thread. Basically, bolts 1-4 are extremely tough to tighten. However we got it done, torque-in at 10, 20, and 30 lbs.
There are parts that have already gone back on. Basically, in the reverse order that they came off. First the radiator hose, then distributor. The latter must be aligned back the way it came off. I achieved this by removing the cap so the rotor was visible and once aligned twisting and wiggling a little to help it fully fall into place.
One valve cover (driver's side) also went back on, but the other will have to wait for the EGR. The driver's side is greatly assisted by removing the top bolt in the bracket that keeps the A/C compressor in place, tilting it in, removing the belt, and tilting it all the way out.
The carb, other valve cover, and hoses will have to wait for tomorrow.
One thing that I have not seen mentioned anywhere is that bolt #1 on the Edlebrock 3701 manifold is NOT ACCESIBLE with a wrench. WTF. It's supposed to be a 9/16 but no box wrench, closed end, or socket would fit. My dad put a long extension onto a thin walled socket and used a rubber mallet to tap it in and then turned it with a lot of effort/force. What edlebrock should have done was put a 7/16 top onto a 9/16 thread. Basically, bolts 1-4 are extremely tough to tighten. However we got it done, torque-in at 10, 20, and 30 lbs.
One valve cover (driver's side) also went back on, but the other will have to wait for the EGR. The driver's side is greatly assisted by removing the top bolt in the bracket that keeps the A/C compressor in place, tilting it in, removing the belt, and tilting it all the way out.
The carb, other valve cover, and hoses will have to wait for tomorrow.
Intake Manifold Swap part 1
Today we swapped the manifold that's been on there a year for the correct (finally) one. It had an Edelbrock performer w/o EGR on and we put the Edelbrock Performer 3701 w/ EGR on because it's California smog legal.
And honestly... it's not as hard as you'd think.
Make sure to first very well familiarize yourself with everything you're looking at and decide what has to be taken off in order to remove the manifold. In my case we started with air cleaner, hoses (thermal vacuum, brake assist, alternator etc), carburetor. Most of the hoses get pushed off to the sides not fully removed. Take pictures try to remember where they go. And keep track of your bolts.
Next up was the upper radiator hose that covers the thermostat on the front end of the manifold. It also has a couple hoses and two bolts on it, and will need the gasket replaced. Drain the radiator into a buck (~3 litres of fluid ish) by opening a release valve on the bottom corner (for 78 firebird it's driver's side, half turn) and stick a sponge into the thermostat hole to soak up whatever is in there (will take 4 or 5 times) and wring it into the bucket.
Last thing to come off the manifold was the distributor. You have to turn it to top dead center and the first cylinder so you know which way it's pointing when you put it back on. Use a 5/8 wrench to turn it from the bottom center wheel. On mine I haven't found the TDC markings at all.
There's 12 bolts holding the manifold on including 2 on the bracket for the accelerator spring and 2 in the bracket holding the kickdown cable; both on the driver side. Undo them and pull it off straight up, tipping the front up once you've cleared everything.
There was all kinds of crud in my motor unfortunately. Just burned up gunk and oil. Being careful not to get any in the ports, I used screw drivers and my fingers to scrape it off and get it all out. Actually helped quite a bit.
Make sure your bolts are also clean. I didnt apply any locking tape or silicone to them, Just made sure they weren't too oily. We flipped the new manifold over and cleaned the ports with acetone to remove any residue and oil. Also, screwed in both TVS vacuum switches.
We scraped clean the surfaces of the heads, wiped them down with acetone, and applied a coat of Permatex Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound to the surface as well as the back of the intake manifold gasket. After letting it set and get tacky for a minute, lined it up and pressed it into place, so that it would stick and stay in place when we set the new manifold. I did a bit of research and discovered "the Right Stuff" was really well recommended over any of the other silicone gasket makers, and used this between the front and back water ports (instead of the rubber supplied with the gaskets) and around all 3 on each side. We then placed in the new manifold.
And honestly... it's not as hard as you'd think.
Make sure to first very well familiarize yourself with everything you're looking at and decide what has to be taken off in order to remove the manifold. In my case we started with air cleaner, hoses (thermal vacuum, brake assist, alternator etc), carburetor. Most of the hoses get pushed off to the sides not fully removed. Take pictures try to remember where they go. And keep track of your bolts.
<----- Front and Back ----->
before removing anything
Next up was the upper radiator hose that covers the thermostat on the front end of the manifold. It also has a couple hoses and two bolts on it, and will need the gasket replaced. Drain the radiator into a buck (~3 litres of fluid ish) by opening a release valve on the bottom corner (for 78 firebird it's driver's side, half turn) and stick a sponge into the thermostat hole to soak up whatever is in there (will take 4 or 5 times) and wring it into the bucket.
Last thing to come off the manifold was the distributor. You have to turn it to top dead center and the first cylinder so you know which way it's pointing when you put it back on. Use a 5/8 wrench to turn it from the bottom center wheel. On mine I haven't found the TDC markings at all.
There's 12 bolts holding the manifold on including 2 on the bracket for the accelerator spring and 2 in the bracket holding the kickdown cable; both on the driver side. Undo them and pull it off straight up, tipping the front up once you've cleared everything.
There was all kinds of crud in my motor unfortunately. Just burned up gunk and oil. Being careful not to get any in the ports, I used screw drivers and my fingers to scrape it off and get it all out. Actually helped quite a bit.
Make sure your bolts are also clean. I didnt apply any locking tape or silicone to them, Just made sure they weren't too oily. We flipped the new manifold over and cleaned the ports with acetone to remove any residue and oil. Also, screwed in both TVS vacuum switches.
We scraped clean the surfaces of the heads, wiped them down with acetone, and applied a coat of Permatex Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound to the surface as well as the back of the intake manifold gasket. After letting it set and get tacky for a minute, lined it up and pressed it into place, so that it would stick and stay in place when we set the new manifold. I did a bit of research and discovered "the Right Stuff" was really well recommended over any of the other silicone gasket makers, and used this between the front and back water ports (instead of the rubber supplied with the gaskets) and around all 3 on each side. We then placed in the new manifold.
Tuesday, August 13, 2013
transmission issues
My dad broke my transmission. It has a TH350 in it, the original one. He drove it around without fluid in it and it wont shift unless you put it through low and sport manually. I did a lot of research and considered some options:
I could put in a TH700 give it some bulk and add the extra fourth gear to it. However this would be costly and take some fabrication and shortening of the drive shaft
I could put in a TH200 4R which would give it four gears, not require cutting or fabrication, and can be built up to handle the weight and V8. THIS was my first choice, buuuuut unfortunately my transmission guy couldn't find one. Damn.
Lastly, there's the choice to rebuild the TH350 in it. I went with this choice because I got it done in Salinas for under 2,000. I chose it because of cost, it didn't require any cutting or fitting, and it keeps the car numbers matching. Just seemed right.
Unfortunately, the shifter in the car is now slight off of alignment and is one gear off when it clicks into place. For example: I used to hit the button pull it back through reverse and neutral release the button and it clunks into drive. Then I would be able to push it into neutral or hit the button and pull it into sport. INSTEAD it clunks into sport, I can push it into drive. Weird.
At least it shifts nice and smoothly, has a new torque converter too.
I still need to hookup the kickdown cable however. That will get done after I swap manifolds.
radio and speakers
In the second generation firebirds, pontiac went a bit strange in their wiring of the radio. The left and right channels of normal broad cast were sent to front and back speakers. For Christmas, I got a set of speakers for my car. It very easily replaced the one in the trunk, fitting the same wires and mounts. However, the front speaker is hidden in the depths of the dashboard. I reached my arm up in there and fumbled around until the wire harness fell free, cut it off, and ran a wire on top of the carpet and under the backseat. In the trunk there's an oval hole on the passenger side to match the driver side speaker mount, but I had to drill 4 holes in the metal and cut through the package tray and insulation to install the second speaker.
Still unsatisfied, I got a really nice Kenmore radio out of a different car. It had AM/FM, colors, an iPod USB and aux plugs. I had read that Hitman at 78ta.com had an adapter that turned the map pocket into a spot for modern radios. I used screwdrivers and wrenches and broke the map pocket into sharp plastic pieces before finally managing to get out the screws and remove it. I bought the right wire harness and meticulously wired the new radio to it so that the old plugs would evenly split the channels between my newly installed speakers. I turned the key.... it didn't work. It took me another half hour to wire power into an accessory port on the fuse box near the pedals.
The one thing the radio is still missing is an antenna. I dont get any radio stations because I can't for the life of me figure out where the antenna is on the old radio and how to get it off. If one day I ever remove the dash, maybe that will do it. In the struggle I knocked a plug off of the climate control unit and now the fan has no power. I think that I can plug it back it though.
Interior refurbishment incl. seat belts and redye of panels
More recently, I have done much research to changing the color of an interior and started to redye my panels. Some of them have sun rot and have to be replaced including the kick panels in the front, the sail panels, and the rear armrest quarter panels. I have already taken off most of them and painted them. I plan on ordering an interior kit from firebird central and getting it installed this year. I will do as much as I can, but will definitely have someone help. I plan on going to Furner's in Chico for help with the seat upholstery and maybe the carpet as well. I replaced the seat belts, but those darn ratchets are not in the best of shape. The passenger one works fine, but the drivers one I wrapped electrical tape around it pulled out so it won't retract haha I've used SEM 15463 Gloss Cabernet to paint everything and it's all turned out really well. I sprayed a darker blue piece that I got for under the steering column and it turned out darker than my faded light blue pieces and I have some black pieces as well.
For the black ones, I did a base coat in white spray paint (not fully coated, more just a dusting) but I'm worried that the unevenness of the base coat will affect the final look. For the armrest rear quarter panels I will try to do a more even base coat. But I think overall it will look pretty good. I plan on taking the center tunnel out to spray it, after I get the interior kit, since it has to come out anyways. I also might tape off all the instrument clusters and the radio and attempt to paint the dash without taking it out because it would certainly look weird if everything was red except the dash.
Also, I scrubbed years of brake dust off the rims and got a chrome spray paint for them (above). Ended up being more of a sparkly silver. I will one day get them blasted and powdered hopefully. I am missing one of the big silver rings that goes around the rim.
scrub down and steering wheel
The week I got it, I spent an entire day cleaning the car. Washed the outside, cacuumed every carpet and seat, wiped down every surface. The steering wheel was filthy and sticky and rather unpleasant however and would not come fully clean. We ended up getting a Grant steering wheel.
It took awhile to install because I didnt have a puller and had to go ask a local car shop to borrow theirs. There's a round gray piece in the steering wheel that operates the horn and turn signal cancellation, however it just refused to fit with the new wheel! I tried many different positions but it ended up breaking and I have to cancel turn signals by hand and have no horn. Someday I will get that small detail fixed.
It took awhile to install because I didnt have a puller and had to go ask a local car shop to borrow theirs. There's a round gray piece in the steering wheel that operates the horn and turn signal cancellation, however it just refused to fit with the new wheel! I tried many different positions but it ended up breaking and I have to cancel turn signals by hand and have no horn. Someday I will get that small detail fixed.
note: spray paint is not for cars and fades really fast I decided to freshen it up haha
cover the ugly
While my dad, the mechanical expert, worried about manifolds and carbs, I was more concerned with torn up seats and degrading carpets. One of the first things I did was put on cheap seat covers in the front seats, however the back ones were in really good shape.
Manifolds, carbs, and idle... that don't work.
The batmobile idled a little funky. The carburetor was rebuilt but just couldn't get the right idle. We took it into a shop in Salinas CA and discussed our options. In the end my dad decided to purchase an Edlebrock manifold and 4 barrel carb to just modernize it, and improve performance and gas mileage.
The original 4barrel carb off the 350 engine
<-----
The original manifold, an immensely heavy piece of cast iron
------->
Now, the guy doing the work seemed knowledgeable but turned out to be far from it. Living in California there are strict smog laws, and Edlebrock makes a manifold that fits the requirements, but the guy ordered the same model, legal in every state EXCEPT ours, and installed it with the Edelbrock 1400 carb. A week later there was smoke pouring out from under the hood; the valve covers were leaking after his installation. My dad and I replaced the valve covers and gaskets, but knew we faced much bigger problems when it came time to smog the car.
The original 4barrel carb off the 350 engine
<-----
The original manifold, an immensely heavy piece of cast iron
------->
Now, the guy doing the work seemed knowledgeable but turned out to be far from it. Living in California there are strict smog laws, and Edlebrock makes a manifold that fits the requirements, but the guy ordered the same model, legal in every state EXCEPT ours, and installed it with the Edelbrock 1400 carb. A week later there was smoke pouring out from under the hood; the valve covers were leaking after his installation. My dad and I replaced the valve covers and gaskets, but knew we faced much bigger problems when it came time to smog the car.
The salinas guy installed this Edelbrock Performer 2101, which fits just fine, just isn't legal in CA because it has no EGR valve and won't pass smog.
This Edelbrock 1400 carb with 600cfm and electric choke will be staying. It comes with a paper stating that it is CA smog legal haha
In the beginning
My name is Jonathon Vanderhorst, I am 19, from Monterey CA and live in Chico CA. I am one year into my first restoration project. This is the tale/documentary of my struggles to bring my Batmobile back to glory.
I got a 1978 Firebird Esprit in the summer of 2012 after my senior year in highschool. Well, technically my dad and I both got it, but I've wanted a firebird since I was little. Not to mention, this one had a rattlecan spraypaint job into a bat mobile! I was sold.
I got a 1978 Firebird Esprit in the summer of 2012 after my senior year in highschool. Well, technically my dad and I both got it, but I've wanted a firebird since I was little. Not to mention, this one had a rattlecan spraypaint job into a bat mobile! I was sold.
It was in phenomenal shape for this era of car! All original and numbers matching, already with most of the work done, including transmission and a rebuilt carburetor. It guzzled gas, was loud, and I love it. It even played a huge part in my senior pictures.
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