BACKSTORY:
Around May of 2013 my dad drove the car with it low on fluid, and it stopped automatically shifting. However it was still drivable by starting in first then shifting manually to S and then D. We drove it like this for awhile, but decided at the end of summer against stepping up to a 4speed and instead rebuilt the TH350 and kept it numbers matching. Got it done at a small shop in Salinas for $1500 and they replaced the torque converter and bulked it up a little.
RECENTLY:
The car worked well for the last couple months. One issue was that it wouldn't always go into park, and sometimes rolled for feet until the transmission finally jerked into place. Another was that the shifter inside the car didn't click in properly with the letters on the tunnel, and was one space off. On my way back to Chico, two hours of highway driving in, it shifted out of third down to 2nd and spun the motor way up. I slowed down and tried to manually coax it back into third, but it wouldn't go.
I took back roads to the neared town, but couldn't find a single transmission shop that was open that day. Finally found a smog/oil change/ general mechanic open and asked if they could take a look. He adjusted the shifter so it went into place properly, and after staring at the car helplessly for awhile, we realized that my transmission fluid was WAY too full. He sucked a lot out, and finally got it down near the proper levels. I've come to believe that driving a lot with the fluid overfilled finally was just too much pressure and wrecked it all.
My dad traded me cars and slowly cruised the batmobile back home (definitely not willing to pay for a 2hr tow truck ride) where it sat in the garage for two weeks.
TODAY:
Called the guy who rebuilt the transmission and took it into him today. He's in town, maybe a ten minute drive, figured I could cruise it over there. Started it up and got onto the highway fine, it even was in third for awhile, but the we got into town and it started getting messy. At a stop light it was smoking a little but i figured it would make it a couple more miles. Then I thought I smelled a BBQ place.... it wasn't BBQ that was burning. Two stoplights later it starts going haywire: won't go into first, 5mph, sounds of grinding metal. I have no choice but to pull over and pop the hood. Smoke comes from the hose that goes from the lower motor to the air cleaner. I pull the transmission dipstick, and the fluid is BLACK. So... THAT was the BBQ smell. This thing is shot. I call a tow truck and they take me the last 3 miles to the shop.
HOPEFULLY:
I don't know why it stopped shifting to 3rd a couple weeks ago. The mechanic owes me at least for that. Granted, we definitely shouldn't have tried to drive it home or to the shop, but then again it already sucks enough money without hundred dollar tow truck rides! So that probably voided a lot of the warranty. We will get the TH350 rebuilt again, but if the mechanic can't figure out why it broke the first time, it's too risky to drive around in case of breaking it yet again.... We won't put in more than 800 or 1,000 dollars towards yet another rebuild, so hopefully it falls under that limit...
Monday, December 23, 2013
Tuesday, September 10, 2013
Air Conditioning
Not sure if I've already mentioned this, but after replacing the radio and moving my hand around blindly in the dash the fan no longer worked. Not that it pumped cold air previously, certainly not; but now the fan would not turn on at the different levels. However I felt a plug that wasn't connected to anything just hanging in there and figured I'd just accidentally undone it. To fix this, I went to the hitman's site and looked under dash removal to learn what might be wrong. I found this picture:
The plug felt long and flat so I decided it went onto the orange piece. Maneuvered it back on and presto the fan works again. Doesn't pump air too strongly and it certainly isn't cold. Can't decide if I want to get a recharge kit, replace the compressor, or if it's probably leaking anyway and I should just take it in.
The plug felt long and flat so I decided it went onto the orange piece. Maneuvered it back on and presto the fan works again. Doesn't pump air too strongly and it certainly isn't cold. Can't decide if I want to get a recharge kit, replace the compressor, or if it's probably leaking anyway and I should just take it in.
Saturday, August 24, 2013
post manifold issues
So, I've been driving a week since the manifold was swapped. This includes a 300 mile/4 hour trip in the summer heat (say 100* average). The oil stayed full, as did the radiator, but something is dripping a little and I think it might be the fuel line where it connects to the carb.
As to how it runs: okay. Can't quite get it tuned right, including the choke. Kind of chugs and surges, even when warm. And the brakes are crappy.
Problem: one of the vacuum hoses is clearly in the wrong spot or not sealing fully. Who knows which one since it's basically a cluster***k of hoses under there. As to the brakes.... it feels like they need to be bled to get some air out which might have happened when we reconnected the vacuum assist but I'm not sure.
Lots of work still to do.
As to how it runs: okay. Can't quite get it tuned right, including the choke. Kind of chugs and surges, even when warm. And the brakes are crappy.
Problem: one of the vacuum hoses is clearly in the wrong spot or not sealing fully. Who knows which one since it's basically a cluster***k of hoses under there. As to the brakes.... it feels like they need to be bled to get some air out which might have happened when we reconnected the vacuum assist but I'm not sure.
Lots of work still to do.
Wednesday, August 14, 2013
Manifold swap part 2
Now, my EGR adapter is supposed to come in tomorrow so it's not fully assembled and running yet. But we did get both vacuum switches off the old manifolds, as well as the choke block off.
One thing that I have not seen mentioned anywhere is that bolt #1 on the Edlebrock 3701 manifold is NOT ACCESIBLE with a wrench. WTF. It's supposed to be a 9/16 but no box wrench, closed end, or socket would fit. My dad put a long extension onto a thin walled socket and used a rubber mallet to tap it in and then turned it with a lot of effort/force. What edlebrock should have done was put a 7/16 top onto a 9/16 thread. Basically, bolts 1-4 are extremely tough to tighten. However we got it done, torque-in at 10, 20, and 30 lbs.
There are parts that have already gone back on. Basically, in the reverse order that they came off. First the radiator hose, then distributor. The latter must be aligned back the way it came off. I achieved this by removing the cap so the rotor was visible and once aligned twisting and wiggling a little to help it fully fall into place.
One valve cover (driver's side) also went back on, but the other will have to wait for the EGR. The driver's side is greatly assisted by removing the top bolt in the bracket that keeps the A/C compressor in place, tilting it in, removing the belt, and tilting it all the way out.
The carb, other valve cover, and hoses will have to wait for tomorrow.
One thing that I have not seen mentioned anywhere is that bolt #1 on the Edlebrock 3701 manifold is NOT ACCESIBLE with a wrench. WTF. It's supposed to be a 9/16 but no box wrench, closed end, or socket would fit. My dad put a long extension onto a thin walled socket and used a rubber mallet to tap it in and then turned it with a lot of effort/force. What edlebrock should have done was put a 7/16 top onto a 9/16 thread. Basically, bolts 1-4 are extremely tough to tighten. However we got it done, torque-in at 10, 20, and 30 lbs.
One valve cover (driver's side) also went back on, but the other will have to wait for the EGR. The driver's side is greatly assisted by removing the top bolt in the bracket that keeps the A/C compressor in place, tilting it in, removing the belt, and tilting it all the way out.
The carb, other valve cover, and hoses will have to wait for tomorrow.
Intake Manifold Swap part 1
Today we swapped the manifold that's been on there a year for the correct (finally) one. It had an Edelbrock performer w/o EGR on and we put the Edelbrock Performer 3701 w/ EGR on because it's California smog legal.
And honestly... it's not as hard as you'd think.
Make sure to first very well familiarize yourself with everything you're looking at and decide what has to be taken off in order to remove the manifold. In my case we started with air cleaner, hoses (thermal vacuum, brake assist, alternator etc), carburetor. Most of the hoses get pushed off to the sides not fully removed. Take pictures try to remember where they go. And keep track of your bolts.
Next up was the upper radiator hose that covers the thermostat on the front end of the manifold. It also has a couple hoses and two bolts on it, and will need the gasket replaced. Drain the radiator into a buck (~3 litres of fluid ish) by opening a release valve on the bottom corner (for 78 firebird it's driver's side, half turn) and stick a sponge into the thermostat hole to soak up whatever is in there (will take 4 or 5 times) and wring it into the bucket.
Last thing to come off the manifold was the distributor. You have to turn it to top dead center and the first cylinder so you know which way it's pointing when you put it back on. Use a 5/8 wrench to turn it from the bottom center wheel. On mine I haven't found the TDC markings at all.
There's 12 bolts holding the manifold on including 2 on the bracket for the accelerator spring and 2 in the bracket holding the kickdown cable; both on the driver side. Undo them and pull it off straight up, tipping the front up once you've cleared everything.
There was all kinds of crud in my motor unfortunately. Just burned up gunk and oil. Being careful not to get any in the ports, I used screw drivers and my fingers to scrape it off and get it all out. Actually helped quite a bit.
Make sure your bolts are also clean. I didnt apply any locking tape or silicone to them, Just made sure they weren't too oily. We flipped the new manifold over and cleaned the ports with acetone to remove any residue and oil. Also, screwed in both TVS vacuum switches.
We scraped clean the surfaces of the heads, wiped them down with acetone, and applied a coat of Permatex Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound to the surface as well as the back of the intake manifold gasket. After letting it set and get tacky for a minute, lined it up and pressed it into place, so that it would stick and stay in place when we set the new manifold. I did a bit of research and discovered "the Right Stuff" was really well recommended over any of the other silicone gasket makers, and used this between the front and back water ports (instead of the rubber supplied with the gaskets) and around all 3 on each side. We then placed in the new manifold.
And honestly... it's not as hard as you'd think.
Make sure to first very well familiarize yourself with everything you're looking at and decide what has to be taken off in order to remove the manifold. In my case we started with air cleaner, hoses (thermal vacuum, brake assist, alternator etc), carburetor. Most of the hoses get pushed off to the sides not fully removed. Take pictures try to remember where they go. And keep track of your bolts.
<----- Front and Back ----->
before removing anything
Next up was the upper radiator hose that covers the thermostat on the front end of the manifold. It also has a couple hoses and two bolts on it, and will need the gasket replaced. Drain the radiator into a buck (~3 litres of fluid ish) by opening a release valve on the bottom corner (for 78 firebird it's driver's side, half turn) and stick a sponge into the thermostat hole to soak up whatever is in there (will take 4 or 5 times) and wring it into the bucket.
Last thing to come off the manifold was the distributor. You have to turn it to top dead center and the first cylinder so you know which way it's pointing when you put it back on. Use a 5/8 wrench to turn it from the bottom center wheel. On mine I haven't found the TDC markings at all.
There's 12 bolts holding the manifold on including 2 on the bracket for the accelerator spring and 2 in the bracket holding the kickdown cable; both on the driver side. Undo them and pull it off straight up, tipping the front up once you've cleared everything.
There was all kinds of crud in my motor unfortunately. Just burned up gunk and oil. Being careful not to get any in the ports, I used screw drivers and my fingers to scrape it off and get it all out. Actually helped quite a bit.
Make sure your bolts are also clean. I didnt apply any locking tape or silicone to them, Just made sure they weren't too oily. We flipped the new manifold over and cleaned the ports with acetone to remove any residue and oil. Also, screwed in both TVS vacuum switches.
We scraped clean the surfaces of the heads, wiped them down with acetone, and applied a coat of Permatex Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound to the surface as well as the back of the intake manifold gasket. After letting it set and get tacky for a minute, lined it up and pressed it into place, so that it would stick and stay in place when we set the new manifold. I did a bit of research and discovered "the Right Stuff" was really well recommended over any of the other silicone gasket makers, and used this between the front and back water ports (instead of the rubber supplied with the gaskets) and around all 3 on each side. We then placed in the new manifold.
Tuesday, August 13, 2013
transmission issues
My dad broke my transmission. It has a TH350 in it, the original one. He drove it around without fluid in it and it wont shift unless you put it through low and sport manually. I did a lot of research and considered some options:
I could put in a TH700 give it some bulk and add the extra fourth gear to it. However this would be costly and take some fabrication and shortening of the drive shaft
I could put in a TH200 4R which would give it four gears, not require cutting or fabrication, and can be built up to handle the weight and V8. THIS was my first choice, buuuuut unfortunately my transmission guy couldn't find one. Damn.
Lastly, there's the choice to rebuild the TH350 in it. I went with this choice because I got it done in Salinas for under 2,000. I chose it because of cost, it didn't require any cutting or fitting, and it keeps the car numbers matching. Just seemed right.
Unfortunately, the shifter in the car is now slight off of alignment and is one gear off when it clicks into place. For example: I used to hit the button pull it back through reverse and neutral release the button and it clunks into drive. Then I would be able to push it into neutral or hit the button and pull it into sport. INSTEAD it clunks into sport, I can push it into drive. Weird.
At least it shifts nice and smoothly, has a new torque converter too.
I still need to hookup the kickdown cable however. That will get done after I swap manifolds.
radio and speakers
In the second generation firebirds, pontiac went a bit strange in their wiring of the radio. The left and right channels of normal broad cast were sent to front and back speakers. For Christmas, I got a set of speakers for my car. It very easily replaced the one in the trunk, fitting the same wires and mounts. However, the front speaker is hidden in the depths of the dashboard. I reached my arm up in there and fumbled around until the wire harness fell free, cut it off, and ran a wire on top of the carpet and under the backseat. In the trunk there's an oval hole on the passenger side to match the driver side speaker mount, but I had to drill 4 holes in the metal and cut through the package tray and insulation to install the second speaker.
Still unsatisfied, I got a really nice Kenmore radio out of a different car. It had AM/FM, colors, an iPod USB and aux plugs. I had read that Hitman at 78ta.com had an adapter that turned the map pocket into a spot for modern radios. I used screwdrivers and wrenches and broke the map pocket into sharp plastic pieces before finally managing to get out the screws and remove it. I bought the right wire harness and meticulously wired the new radio to it so that the old plugs would evenly split the channels between my newly installed speakers. I turned the key.... it didn't work. It took me another half hour to wire power into an accessory port on the fuse box near the pedals.
The one thing the radio is still missing is an antenna. I dont get any radio stations because I can't for the life of me figure out where the antenna is on the old radio and how to get it off. If one day I ever remove the dash, maybe that will do it. In the struggle I knocked a plug off of the climate control unit and now the fan has no power. I think that I can plug it back it though.
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